Seven days in Singapore

The opening page of my Moleskine Japanese Album 

The last time I visited Singapore was on my way to Australia in October 1987. It struck me as a rather dull, over regulated kind of a town -  rather self-conscious and insecure. There were $1,000 fines for anyone dropping litter and there was an uncomfortable contrast between the expensive shops of Orchard Road and the crowded tenements just a few streets away.

Raffles hotel was very shabby. The crumbling courtyards were scattered with rotting cane  armchairs and while it had a certain air of faded elegance and was evocative of a former age of prosperity, it was a bit down at heel and sad.

Jim Thompson restaurant 

Twenty-six years later Singapore has grown up into a modern, clean, exciting city that is dripping with bougainvillea from every balcony, bridge and flyover. The streets throng with people of every nationality and the avenues are lined with the most beautiful rain forest trees. The variety of modern architecture in this 21st century city is remarkable. There are acres of polished granite and green tinted glass.

Dancing girl a Thai recipe

Buffalo Road fruit and veg

We ate at local food courts that are so typical of Singapore. You can get all the best flavours of China, Hong Kong, Malaysia,  Thailand, Hainan, Singapore and Vietnam and all for very little money.  We dined at great restaurants like Jim Thompson and the courtyard at Raffles and enjoyed old fashioned Dim Sum in China Town where ladies still vend food from their steel trollies. Hiu-yen cooked (of course) and her family brought enough dishes to feed a small army when they gathered at the Changi Bungalow.

a section of the city map showing the route we took

Singapore has managed to conserve large pockets of its less fashionable districts and allowed the communities to stamp their own personalities on it. Little India is quite a large neighbourhood of old shop houses that have been painted in bright colours reflecting the culture of the residents and shop keepers. It is a bustling, noisy chaotic district that was supercharged by the Deepavali street lights and seasonal decorations available in the jam-packed shops and markets.   

Emerald Hill

Emerald Hill is a more upmarket remnant of the wealthy merchants who were trading goods around SE Asia. This area first started as a nutmeg plantation and began to be developed for housing in the 1890s. most of the existing terraces were built in the 1930s but seem to be styled from an earlier age. 

Rain Tree and the Ubin Island ferry

We left the beautiful home of friends in Holland Village and moved east to Changi Point to spend a fews days at Aloha Changi resort in one of the disused RAF officers' houses; built in the 1960,70 and 80s. They are set amid unspoilt grounds of rainforest  trees and other plants and the morning air is filled with the shrieks of tropical birds and the constant

Our bungalow

trill of cicadas. This huge Rain Tree, with its Bird Nets Ferns and creepers. I got the distinct feeling that if the gardeners didn't turn up for a few weeks, the rainforest would quickly take over again and the few buildings would be lost from sight.

Singapore Changi airport is situated close to the point and that whole district is still littered with the military and trading remnants of British occupation that was started by Sir Stamford Raffles back in 1816. 

Old Changi Prison

At the top of this post, I include a picture and drawing of Jim Thompson Thai restaurant that is housed in  one of the many listed military barracks and mess buildings on the island.

Another poignant relic is part of the original wall of the infamous Changi Prison which still stands as a memorial to all those who lost their lives at the hands of the Japanese army that occupied the island for three years during WW2

Map showing the route from Holland Village to Fairy Point

This view is from the beach below our bungalow at 7am one morning. You can see what a busy place it still is. huge container ships and all manner of small craft criss cross through these straits  24 hours a day and approaching aircraft glide over the waters in their final approaches to the airport. The land in the distance is Indonesia.

Geoff and Hui-yen wander through the mangroves

We took a trip across the straits to Ubin Island and took a tour on foot and in a little van around this nature reserve. The most enjoyable part was the walk we took along a raised boardwalk through mangrove swamp, water coconut groves and out onto the sea where we could look down upon coral beds. It was so beautiful.




For another perspective on life in Singapore, I spent Friday 18th October 2013  in a doctor's surgery followed by a trip to A&E and the Opthamological Dept of Changi  General Hospital. I was taken there by a taxi driver who has definitely missed his calling as a tour guide. 

He drove past the Changi museum , the massive gun built to defend the island from invasion from the sea ( the Japanese came overland from behind!), the prison, the army barracks and so on. He was full of personal memories and urban myths. It was he who told me uncomfortable stories about the Prison wall and then revealed that the Japanese high school's proximity to the prison was no planning error and so on!  He certainly kept me amused. But then he revealed the local name for Changi General Hospital......... CGH .... which stands for 'Can't Go Home'!!!!!!  It seems the Singaporeans love to use the initials of   the big institutions on the island to make up new names! 


Well, I was very well looked after by the doctors and staff there. It was a super modern facility where the A&E department felt more like a shopping mall than a medical facility. The lovely receptionists all wear pink outfits, the same colours as the beautiful bougainvillea that decorates the whole city. 

I had a wonderful week with some remarkable people who I will never forget. Thank you all for your generous hospitality, delightful company and for sharing your city with me. I will be back soon.

Generations

Generations

This painting is from my forthcoming exhibition '365' at Vin in Gallery, 6 Le Van Mien, District 2. The private view is on September 6th, exactly one year since I arrived. The exhibition opens to the public on the first day of my second year. 

If you can come and join the celebrations - you will be very welcome. there will be wine and canapes, a traditional Vietnamese musician and.......... of course........ cake!

I captured this scene on a visit to Ba Chieu Market in District 3. So far, this is my favourite covered market in Saigon because it's not overwhelmingly huge, tight packed or crowded and the gaps between stalls are wide enough for the average westerner to walk through without turning sideways. 

This is a locals market ;not for the tourist. I found all manner of things I had never seen before which reassured me that I really am half way round the globe in a strange and foreign land where none of the rules of home apply. Outside, an elegant and slightly stern looking lady was selling betel leaves wrapped around areca nuts. the older generations like to chew these to enjoy a mild stimulant effect. The addition of white or pink limestone powder can enhance the flavour and stain the teeth an attractive shade of Dracula red!

It was also near the market that I found the Chinese herbalist from whom I bought my precious ginseng stash. Here he is heating the root (straight from his ice box) to slice it into translucent wafer which I can nicely tuck in the corner of my mouth, for 30 minutes,and wait for the pungent  enzymes to slip into my bloodstream. 

I must g back form some of his brain numbing Ginseng wine!

As we walked through the market a colony of bats was pointed out to me - suspended in the rafters of the market roof away from the light of day and directly above a narrow passage where roosters and hens roamed free!

So, back to my painting. I stood in this covered alley adjacent to the market building for a long time watching the people come and go through the shadows and shards of brilliant light that penetrated the patchwork of awnings above. The iridescent glow of this scene was completely captivating to me.

Young women, these days, seem to do all their daily chores with their motorcycle helmets on. Since the wearing of helmets was made law in December 2007, women have, in some cases, forsaken the traditional conical hat. It simply isn't practical to carry a straw hat around on a motorbike and, since the wearing of hats is a necessary protection form the sun, they have taken to wearing their helmets as they go about their business,when out of doors.  Even fishermen's wives can be seen wearing their helmets on the beach when helping to bring in the boats and sort the fish to take to market. 

So, this scene shows those very same young women buying their fruit and vegetables while wearing their helmets.

On the left, a young man is cycling through the market in his designer shorts and tee-shirt. probably picking up some supplies for his grandmother on his way home for lunch.

In the centre, a women walking to collect lunch from her favourite food stall, bowl in hand. She was wearing the most exquisite silk suit that you only see on older women. Her conical hat is protected by a modern polythene cover but she has a traditional silk scarf knotted in each side to secure it in place.

The motorbike, the bicycle and the pedestrian each bearing the symbols of their age and generation. The boy is too young for a motorbike license. The young women must have good jobs to be able to afford smart modern scooters. The older woman wearing all the traditional accoutrements of her generation and probably those of her mother's as well.

The exhibition is on until September 14th at Vin Gallery

Postcard from Vietnam 5

One of the greatest benefits of travelling by train in Vietnam is that it provides an excellent opportunity to view the beautiful landscape at a leisurely pace.  Trains in Europe are designed to get you from one place to another as soon as possible but to journey by rail in Vietnam fulfils the Chinese proverb which says ‘the journey is the reward’

Departing from Ga Saigon (from the French word for railway station – Gare) I was amazed at how close people live, work, play, eat and sleep to the single track that carves a narrow corridor through the tightly packed neighbourhoods of north western Saigon. One more metre to left or right and we would have been travelling through their living rooms, barber shops and bars.

After a while, the scenery opens out and we are in a watery landscape of rice paddies, lakes and small towns. Our train starts to climb to higher ground and the scenery and the light changes. This region reminds me of the Highlands of Scotland in many ways. The hills rise steeply both sides of our train and the lush green of the lowlands has given way to a starker landscape with fewer trees and villages and dusty roads that are less travelled I think. But the best is yet to come.

From the comfort of my sleeper carriage on Vietnam Railways, the landscape gently rolls past the window like a documentary film. In this seemingly idyllic land every view is worth painting and the fields and villages, themselves, seem to have been touched by the artist’s brush. 

If you take the midnight train from Saigon, you will arrive at the coastal town of Nha Trang at dawn. From here the single train track hugs the beautiful coastline which is dotted with romantic islands and purple peninsulas backlit by the rising sun. The views of the East Sea shimmering in the low light of a fresh morning are breath-taking.

On one of my journeys, this hour was marked by the arrival of the breakfast trolley carrying a large bucket of fresh, hard boiled, eggs. These delicious treats are served with a pinch of the ubiquitous chilli salt presented in a little recycled paper wrapper. Mine was part of page of an old train timetable – how apt!

As Vietnam wakes to another day, you can see people tending their gardens and allotments beside the train track. A cowherd takes his cattle and calves to pasture. A lone motorcyclist spins down a country road easily keeping pace with the train. Workers make an early start in the green and gold fields at the coolest time of day. Teams of women, in their conical hats, are gathering in the hay to make haystacks reminiscent of those in Monet’s paintings of rural France in the late 1800s.

Travelling along the single track railway that runs the length of Vietnam is truly one of this country’s hidden delights. It may be slow but I cannot think of any good reason to rush through this fascinating and varied landscape.

Published in OI Vietnam - July 2013 click here

Contemporary art in Saigon

Last night I spoke at a Pecha Kucha event at the Ly Club near the Reunification Palace. It. was quite a swanky event in the garden of a large villa. 

The garden was furnished with modern white furniture and automatically adjusting cantilevered sun shades. My platform was sheet glass laid over an uplit pool. I had better make a good job of this presentation!

My subject was '10 good reasons to buy contemporary art in Vietnam today'

Bui Quang Anh - Tu Do Gallery

According to the Pecha Kucha format each speaker has 20 PowerPoint slides and each slide is shown for 20 seconds. So, I have just over  six and a half minutes to state my case.

Eamonn O'Callaghan - Vin Gallery

The images for my slides were taken from gallery websites of current, recent or upcoming exhibitions in Siagon and, by popular request, here are the details of the artists and galleries.

Do Thi Kim Doan - Lac Hong Gallery

Dang Xuan Hoa - Apricot Gallery

Ignacio De Grado - Vin Gallery

Bui Suoi Hoa - Vin Gallery

Doan Chi Hieu - Vin Gallery

Sandrine Llouquet - Gallery Quynh

Nguyen Thi Ngoc Lan - Vin Gallery

Do Hoang Toang - Gallery Qyunh

Ha Man Thang - Gallery Qyunh

Le Hoang Bich Phuong - San Art

Phuong My with San Art

Bui Tam Thanh - Craig Thomas Gallery

Do Hoang Tuong - Gallery Qyunh

Nguyen The Hung - Craig Thomas Gallery

If you find some work you like, you should subscribe to the gallery's newsletter if they have one. Vin Gallery and Gallery Qyunh certainly do.

50 years of change

I have started working on drawings, watercolours and acrylic paintings of Saigon that will go towards a new book and an exhibition of original work some time in early 2014.

This painting....... not yet finished, tells an interesting story of two great symbols of power and optimism.

In the foreground is the Reunification Palace which replaced the former French colonial Governor's General's residence.

The French invaded Vietnam in 1858 and the building of the palace would have stood as a symbol of their command over South Vietnam. It was completed around 1875. Built in the style of a grand French country residence, it was designed by the French architect of Hong Kong's original City Hall. Befitting its gracious style, it was set in formal gardens and open parkland planted with specimen trees. It was a grand symbol of colonial wealth, influence and power.

After an encounter with a bomb in 1962 it was demolished and rebuilt as a new symbol of the emerging state of Vietnam. After the 'American War' it was renamed the 'Reunification Palace' as a  clear message to the world.

In the background is the new Bitexco Tower with its glittering glass and steel reaching into the sky. This building sends a message about Saigon's readiness for modern global commerce. 

the palace is set amid lovely gardens and has a very human scale. The tower is bedded in concrete and tarmac with busy streets, shops, cafes and bars crowded around its precincts. I like the contrast of these two buildings that span 50 years of turmoil, change and growth in southern Vietnam.

My first book!!! 

This gorgeous little book was published last week and is the culmination of 6 month's work since my 10 day visit to Hoi An in December 2012.  It was made possible by the support of my wonderful friends who have listened, checked, criticized, praised and questioned all my efforts. They rescued me when people and events conspired against me, encouraged me, covered for me, fixed things, dug me out of holes. They celebrate with me and never hold me back.  

Thank you all.

Thank you, also, to new friends and associates in Saigon who have supported this project in so many ways, from start to finish. Your advice, prodding, promotion, pushing and encouragement have helped me feel at home.  

And, a special thank you to Jo and Mai for giving me so many amazing opportunities; for putting up with me, putting a roof over my head and helping me to find my way in this exotic, exciting, enigmatic land. FG.

A Week in Hoi An is an interactive artist’s guide to the World Heritage Town which casts a spell on all who visit with its ancient streets, colourful shops, the temples, cafes and the bustling market. Surrounding it is a verdant landscape of rice paddies and morning glory beds where people still work the fields with oxen and the buzz of dragonflies is all around.

Running through is the river that once made Hoi An one of the busiest trading posts on the East Sea. Only 3 km away is the most beautiful beach in all Vietnam , running like a silver strand all the way up to Da Nang and beyond.

This book is a collection of pages taken directly from my Moleskine sketch book, further paintings, drawings and  notes about some of the history and local culture. In all there are 60 colour illustrations recording my visit. 

Also, inside this First Edition, there are three special postcards to send, or maybe just to frame. Use this book as your guide, make notes about your own experiences as you go or just enjoy the reading.  It will make you smile.

Get your own copy from Amazon from July 17th or by contacting me at bridgetmarch.com

Look out Saigon; I'm back!

Notre Dame Cathedral, Saigon

This week has been one of those landmark weeks when a number of projects have 'matured' , come together, taken flight or been completed

My little book about Hoi An has been taking all of my time and energy for the past two months but we are nearly there now. The ISBN number arrived from London a week ago, the government license from Hanoi arrived yesterday so my wonderful Bulgarian designer, Ani, and I are filled with anticipation. She will see the first proof on Tuesday and will hopefully decide it is good enough to go ahead and print the first 500.

Last week we held Saigon's first Art Market at the VinGallery in District 2. We had twelve artists and designer-makers and over a hundred people came to look, buy and watch demonstrations and enjoy childrens' activities. I designed a banner to head up all our communications and Shyevin, the gallery owner, blew it up to make a 2mtr wide banner for the entrance on opening day. She even managed to find some bunting to match the bunting in my drawing! It looked fabulous!

The event was very good for the gallery that is working hard to raise its profile and very good for yours truly who sold lots of mini watercolours and some limited edition prints of work I did in Hoi An.

In Vietnam it is 'end of year' for schools and for thousands of expats form around the globe. This is the time when families start packing to go on to their next international posting or simply to go back home to visit families.   As a result,I have very few students for my drawing and watercolour classes so I decided to organise some informal drawing sessions for anyone who might be in town and fancies and couple of hour's sketching. 

For our first event, we met at the Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf cafe in front of Notre Dame Cathedral. This is guaranteed to be a busy spot so it is good for people watching, traffic spotting and the 'basilica' makes for good architecture practice. 

I have drawn here before.  In fact, apart from a potted Frangipani in Jo's home, the sketch of the cathedral was my first in Vietnam. here it is - drawn 17/09/2012

Back then I spent many days wandering the streets of different districts of Saigon. With pencil and pen in hand I was searching the city to find what makes it tick, what people do and discover some of its history. My trip to Hoi An in December and the prospect of publishing a book of work about that amazing little town switched my focus and  I feel I have been neglecting the, so called  'Eclectic, Erotic, Exotic Saigon' 

But............. I am back! 

A few weeks ago I went out with some friends who operate street food tours of Saigon 
on their tour of some of the streets in District 3. This put me straight back in the mood for my Saigon Adventure II: Street Life; The Sequel. Saigon Street Eats is run by an Australian girl and her Vietnamese husband so they mix the inimitable Australian sense of fun and 'getting stuck in' with the Vietnamese  obsession for great food and Vu's local knowledge. It is an unbeatable way to get under the skin of this city.

After that tour I rushed home to do these little paintings. This is the beginnings of my next little book in which will be all about my first 12 months in Ho Chi Minh City. I need a title ............ err..... 'A year in Saigon'............. 'Cycling over lychees' .............. 'A wide beam to Ho Chi Minh City' ........... 'Weeds in my soup' ..... ideas on a postcard please.