Almost all medium to large boats in Vietnam these dramatic motifs painted on the bow. These 'eyes' are intended to ward off evil spirits and to guide the boats safely back to land.
From the small amount of research I have done, it seems that this decoration is unique to Vietnamese craft in Asia and particularly in the Meekong delta and south of the country.
Some fishermen in Malta also paint eyes on their bows and some think this was a Phoenician or ancient Greek tradition. Apparently, there is no real basis for this particular idea.
These square bows are typical of freight craft throughout Vietnam. The square head makes it easier to offload from the front and you can see these boats moored side by side along quay sides with planks going to each bow. Many of the larger boats have massive steel nosings on these bows to protect the woodwork.
All these boats used to have masts and beautiful sails but these days they are all motor powered. Only in the tourist areas do you still find sailing boats.
It has been a lovely 10 days in Hoi An and I have been busy with my favourite Japanese Moleskin as ever.
There more to see and do in this part of Central Vietnam than you could possibly achieve in a month let alone 10 days but I have enjoyed doing a number of things I didn't manage last summer in our 3 day whistle stop tour.
On day one I rented a bicycle which has made such a difference to every day in this lovely region. the land is completely flat, apart from the odd bridge, so even I was able to ride for 10 or 15 kilometres without too much effort.
The landscape just outside the main town is a patchwork of tranquil paddy fields which are still ploughed by man and water buffalo and the air buzzes with dragonflies just above your head.
The pale ochre silken waters of the estuary are dotted with all kinds of wooden boats for fishing, tourist river trips and dozens of working barges which ferry the locals from island to island.
The local people are very welcoming and are justly proud of their fascinating heritage. Hoi An first flourished in the days of the early silk trade of the 16th century and each different trading nation from Japan to France has made its mark on the towns style and culture.
On December 26th the Full Moon was celebrated. This is a time for special offerings to your ancestors and every house and shop front had a table of food and wine with candles and incense burning throughout the evening. There is a local tradition of playing Chinese Chess and on Full Moon night the elders of the town put on traditional Vietnamese dress and play by candle light outside all the temples and ancient monuments.
