Wednesday 1 May 2013

A little of what you fancy ..............


Dear friends,

 as I write, I am sampling an elixir I purchased from a Chinese herbalist only yesterday.

I went in search of the magic root, Ginseng and was proffered a pint bottle of Ginseng Tonic Wine for 45,000 Vietnam Duong (£1.35) At 26 degrees of proof, this has the makings of an excellent alternative to Harvey’s Club Amontillado Sherry……… the only difference between these two fortified wines that I can discern on first tasting is that Sherry has never, in my long experience, ever caused made my top and the left side of my tongue to go numb. Interesting.  


In fact, as it slips down my throat I am getting the same sensation in other parts and a slight ‘Ginseng rush’ at the back of my skull and in my temples. Hmmmm.

But, I am not worried – no, not one bit, because on the label is a photo of an octogenarian running like a young buck!

One more sip……. Hmmm…………. Not so bad.


At this Chinese herabalist, I also bought just under 100gsm of whole, Korean Ginseng which costs $200 per kilo! Here is my stash for your perusal.

The herbalist's abacus








And another sip……………. Hmm …………. A bit like drinking Fisherman’s Friends……….. though I have never known them to make my lips go numb either.
My herbalist



My Ginseng Root being gently heated before slicing

slicing the root

This all happened because I went out with new friends Barbara and Vu who started an enterprise called Saigon Street Eats about 6 months ago http://www.saigonstreeteats.com/ 

We met when I went on one of their tours in March and sampled some amazing foods on the ‘Saigon seafood Trail’ evening tour during which we ate, amongst other things clams, oysters (not like the ones at home at all), conche, winkles, snails, razor, scallops and some things that looked like little penises! It was an excellent evening out and the best way I have yet found to discover hidden Saigon.

To help me with research for my next book, I asked if they could take me into some of the city neighbourhoods of Saigon that I wouldn’t otherwise have been able to find.

Ooooh – slight ache – frontal lobe………. Have another sip.

Here is a sample of some of the things they helped me to discover as I tagged along on one of their tours yesterday morning. 

Can't type any more - fingers have gone squishy...................... pictures will speak for me.

Breakfast of soup, noodles and lots of fresh weeds
Look at the size of those grapes

Sweet potatoes and bananas

A fine collection of wires
no words


Vu Checks his lottery ticket numbers
Oh look - I can still type. This lady is selling betel leaves for chewing. She also has betel leaves wrapped around arnica nuts and two choices of ground limestone (white or pink chalk I guess) that you add as a condiment to release the drug more quickly into the blood stream.  

Chewing the leaves and nuts is popular amongst the older generation. It stains the teeth and gums a deep red which used to be considered attractive. Some older women still have black teeth.


The ingredients used to blacken the teeth can take several forms.
In Vietnam it is common to use red sticklac, a resin obtained from secretions of a tiny aphid-like insect that sucks the sap of a host tree, as a dye.
The resin is diluted with lemon juice or rice alcohol and stored in the dark for a few days. It's then applied with pressure to all the teeth. An application of iron (mainly from iron nails) or copper from green or black alum and tannin from Chinese gall reacts with solution to give a blue-black insoluble coating

 What a palarva!

This photo was taken outside a banana leaf merchant. Tons of banana leaf are used every day in Vietnam, to wrap food for steaming and baking .  But actually, I was more interested in his vintage bike!




The rice & catfood merchant

Add caption

dried squid
dried seafood in the market. Tons of dried shrimp / prawns are sold every day in Vietnam

More egg varieties than we eat at home

Little baskets of silver fish


My stalker

Aren't these ladies great!

Colourful canopies

Lottery ticket sellers

Young man selling lottery tickets


It's lunchtime now

Government issue weighing scales


Spooky Banyan tree full of ghosts


How exotic!
Canon ball fruit and flowers


Into the temple gardens to cool down and get a manicure

What a brilliant morning out it was. Thanks to Barbara and Vu for being great hosts and helping me to discover more of the delights of Saigon. I did loads of sketching along the way and have lots of great materials for my next book.  

Oh look - and I can still type. One hour later I still have a little Ginseng rush going on in the skull and, who knows, maybe I will go out for a run later!  

Hen Gap lai !

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