I am passionate about boats. I love to
draw them and back home in England I even lived on one for 10 years. I can sit
and watch boats bob about in a harbour for hours. Just listening to the slap of
ropes on masts and watching fishermen mend nets and wind ropes fills me with
delight. One of the big benefits of living near the river or the coast in
Vietnam is being able to enjoy a seemingly endless variety of traditional
wooden boats and ships that move along the canals and rivers and gather in
harbours along the coast.
I reckon I was born with some salt
water in my veins because my mother’s family were seafarers in the north of
England. I can just about remember wooden sailing boats coming and going in
their home town but sadly the fishing industry is almost extinct in the UK
which is a sad loss.
Here in Vietnam, however boats still
form a major part of the transport systems internationally, nationally and
locally. Whether you want to ship rice to Australia or take your chickens to
market, boats are often the best way from A to B. Many communities in rural
areas are only accessible by boat so the rhythms of the tides, the winds and
the rain are the factors that set the pace of life.
Here are some of my favourite things to
do on the water...........
I like to take a little wooden boat
down the river in Hoi An at the end of the afternoon and return to the quay
side by the market just as the sun is beginning to set. The low afternoon sun
casts a warm glow over the ancient town and paints beautiful reflections in the
silken waters of the river.
The thrill of taking a speed boat up
the Saigon River to Cu Chi is hard to beat as way to spend a morning. Weaving
through the floating islands of water hyacinths leaving a sparkling white wake
behind you is truly exhilarating.
A truly evocative sight is the estuary
at Phan Thiet which is jammed with traditional, wooden fishing boats moored so
close together you could almost walk from one end of the town to the other
across their decks. Teams of fishermen work on their boats and the women
ferry supplies and men from ship to shore in coracles and small wooden tenders.
The sight from the bridge over the Song Ca Ty (river Ca Ty) reminded me of old
paintings of the fishing ports of England a hundred years ago. It was like
bringing history to life.
Take a trip from Saigon to Vung Tau on
the hydrofoil to experience the open wildness of the river with its backdrop of
blue and purple hills in the distance. Go speeding past the crotchety fishing
boats with their double and triple tiered wheelhouses and wave to the light
house keeper as you pass by.
Arrive in Vung Tau and walk along the beach amongst the curly fishing boats and fishermen fixing their nets.
Shrine house decorated for New Year |
Suspended from the ceiling inside was the big red drum that the cox beats to keep the oarsmen in rhythm and two model dragon boats - one for Hoi An and the other for Cam Chau.
As you ca'n see from the photo, the Hoi An boys are sitting up and rowing but the Cam Chau oars are 'up' . I guess this might mean that Hoi An won the cup last year and that Cam Chau was the loser.
As we cycled further we came to a meadow with a huge boat house in the middle. I estimate this boat to be about 60 feet long. In teh bow were the still smouldering joss sticks that must have been lit by team members that morning as they prayed for victory in the coming year.
Chuc Mung Nam Moi ..................... Happy New Year everyone.
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